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Training for 8000 m

One question I get a lot is how I train for my upcoming expedition to Broad Peak. And I´m right now making a vlog about it but I also wanted to share a few things here.

My training have not been the best for this since I have this injury in my achilles since June. It is better now. But I can still feel it, so it´s not perfect. Things like this takes time to heal and I was pretty bad injured so there is a chance it will never become as it was again.

After my adventure last summer where I climbed all of Sweden´s 2000 m peaks I had to stop all activity for three months. Just focusing on rehab. After that I could slowly start with training but it wasn´t until the beginning of 2021 that I was able to run a little bit again.

So I´m a little bit behind on the training from where I wish I was. I used to feel really stressed about it but I´m not anymore. I will do what I can to be as ready as possible. And I can also see and feel that the training I have been doing is giving result.

I´m training with my coach Martin Zhor since a year. We knew each other from Chamonix and he came with me to Aconcagua last year to do a speed attempt. He ended up breaking the world record by climbing from Basecamp to the summit in 3 hours, 38 minutes and 17 seconds. I would probably be able to get halfway to the summit from basecamp in that time if I really pushed it. He is a machine! If you want to get a coach I can really recommend this guy!

Martin makes a plan for me with my training depending on what my goals are. For now it´s Broad Peak.

This plan is divided in different stages. I just started the max strength period after building base for a while. This period will go on for a few more weeks before focusing on muscular endurance.

I get a schedule from Martin every week. It goes straight into this app called Training Peaks where I can see what I am suppose to do day by day and if there is any specific instructions like “carry 10 kg backpack” or “do intervals 4×5 min after 20 min warm up”. I also report my training sessions in this app and get feedback from Martin. We speak every week and he follows up what I do.

The challenge for me is the consistency since my work is very demanding and I travel quite a lot. We try to do the most of it depending on what my schedule look like.

I train around 12-14 hours per week. This is the plan for this week:

Monday: Strength legs + core with bike warm up and cool down

Tuesday: Running 45 min

Wednesday: Stairmaster intervals 70 min (I also did some bouldering that was not in the schedule)

Thursday: Running 60 min (I also biked 45 min)

Friday: Strength legs + core with bike warm up and cool down

Saturday: Climbing + 90 min bike (this is my free training / rest day and I will use it to go climbing and bike there)

Sunday: 60 min bike + 60 min stairmaster

For now since my goal is Broad Peak I don´t have any climbing or upper body strength sessions in my schedule. But I add that once or twice per week on my free training days or if I have time just to keep it up a little bit.

After Broad Peak I will focus more on technical climbing for my next big project. But that is later. Now it´s important to work on endurance and strength for my legs.

I do most of my training in zone 2 – low intensity training at max 70%. I have no problem controlling my heart rate on the stairmaster or the bike but when it comes to running my heart rate always go through the roof. Because I´m not a runner. But I started seeing some progression there, yesterday when I ran for 60 min I had a heart rate of 154 instead of 164 (last week). I just need to run more and get my body used to it.

At the moment I´m in Sweden in Stockholm and we have no mountains here so I´m training on the gym. Our only hill (86 m high) is full of snow that is melting so that is not an option right now. In a few weeks it will be good again. But I hope to spend the last four weeks before the expedition in The Alps and train there. It doesn´t look good with the new restrictions but we will see!

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