Menu Close

Five cool climbs in The Alps


If you are going to The Alps this summer here are five climbs to put on your bucketlist:

Aiguille de Rochefort

The most beautiful ridge climb I´ve even seen! Sometimes super narrow with 2000 m exposure into Italy on your right side. It´s graded AD but you need good balance and a great partner for this one (or a guide of course). In the end of the climb you will stand on top of the 4001 m high mountain. You go back the same way and if you are fast this is a climb you can combine with the next one on the list!

Dent du Geant

The giant tooth. The approach is the same as for Aiguille de Rochefort but instead you traverse to the left to start climbing the SW face. This is a really cool climb and in some places equipped with fixed ropes to make it a little bit more accessible. It has great exposure, vertical climbing and a long rappel down on the otherside after the climb (one is free hanging and it´s really cool). Grade AD+

The Breithorn Traverse

If you are going for the full traverse with all five 4000 m peaks the best way is to stay in Bivacco Rossi e Volante the night before. Then you can get an early start and make it back down to Zermatt with the last lift. If you only have one day the half traverse might be a better option to have no stress. The full traverse is an impressive climb starting with a 45-50 degree snow or ice wall up to the summit of Roccia Nera 4075 m and then it continues over four other 4000 m peaks. The climb up Breithorn Orientale can be extra spectacular if you climb up the tower. You will have great exposure and fun varied climbing all day long. Grade AD+

La Meije Traverse

One of the finest traverses in The Alps but very very long. It has everything from great scrambling to more difficult sections and steep glaciers. It´s hard for it´s grade (D) and never ending so go when you are well acclimatised and fit. You go up and down over many peaks almost at 4000 meters for a full day. Just the approach to Refuge du Promotorie takes a full day with 1200 m D+ and scrambling grade II from La Grave. But the climb is amazing.

Piz Badile

Pizzo Badile is a fantastic granite peak that stands out notably from its surroundings in the Bergell (Bregaglia). The north side of the mountain is in Switzerland and the south side is in Italy. Views of the north side of the peak are striking from any angle. The long North Ridge has been described as one of the best rock climbs of its grade in the Alps grade D. The Northeast Face is a famous and much sought after climb with a rich history and it´s one of the classic six North Faces in The Alps. There you find the via Cassin grade TD (but have two pitches that are pretty hard for the grade). An epic climb that will take you 2 or 3 days!

Photo Andreas Bengtsson / Mountain Guide Travel from Aiguille de Rochefort – contact us if you are looking to climb any of these peaks or need a mountain guide in The Alps

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.

Share This

Copy Link to Clipboard